All about protein (2): what to eat?
彻底搞懂蛋⽩质 (⼆): 吃什么?

上⼀篇聊了我们到底需要多少蛋白质,今天来看看蛋白质的⻝物来源和含量,这些蛋白质转化成餐桌上的食物是什么样子。 


We established how much protein we really need for long term health, now, what are the best  food sources and what does it look like on the plate? 




在我们探讨不同⻝物的蛋⽩质含量之前,需要⾸先谈谈⼀个很多人都会⽐较疑惑的问题:植物蛋白与动物蛋白。 


Before we look at the protein content of different foods, we have to address the elephant in the  room: plant protein vs animal protein. 




如果我们只是看动物蛋白的蛋白质含量,不去理会任何其他因素,不理会随之⼀起来的健康隐患,不理会其对地球环境的影响,也不理会任何⼈道主义的担忧,肉类的蛋⽩质是含量最高,最易吸收,也是最方便的蛋白质来源。 


If we just look at the protein content of animal meat, but nothing else, nothing about the health baggages that come along with it, and nothing about the environmental implications, and nothing about humanitarian concerns, animal meat has the highest protein content and is the  easiest to absorb, and definitely the most convenient sources. 




但我们并不能不理会其他所有的这些东西,不是吗?暂且不论工业化动物养殖对环境的危害,暂且也不论纯粹为了人类消费而进行⼯业化动物养殖的种种残忍,那就只看它对健康的影响。肉类除了带给我们美妙的蛋⽩质,还有些什么呢? 


But we cannot just ignore everything else, can we? Forget about the environmental harm of animal farming, forget  about the cruelty involved in raising animals for the sole purpose of meat consumption on an  industrial scale, what are the health baggages that come with the wonderful protein content? 




⼀个最大的问题是喂食这些动物的饲料。其实,影响我们健康的并不是我们吃的东西,而是我们吃的东西所吃的东⻄。鸡不再吃小虫子,⽽是喂食⾕物;奶牛不再吃草,⽽是吃⾕物;鱼不再吃小鱼、藻类和昆⾍,而是吃谷物。⼯业饲养的动物和鱼类正在吞噬着与其天然⻝物来源完全不同的东西。而这些⾕物通常是最便宜的,往往充满了杀⾍剂和除草剂的转基因作物。是的,它们最终会出现在你的肠道⾥。⾕物甚⾄可能都不是最糟糕的饲料。 听说过用死动物肉来喂养动物吗?这个概率要远⽐你可以想像得要多得多得多。


A big one is what these animals eat. Ultimately, we are not what we eat, we are actually what  we eat eat. Instead of eating insects and worms, chicken are fed grains; instead of grazing on  grass, cows are fed grains; instead of eating smaller fish, algae and insects, fish are fed grains.  Industrially raised animals and fish are eating things that are completely foreign to their natural  food sources. And these grains are also the cheapest, usually GMO crops full of pesticides  and herbicides. Yes, they do eventually end up in your gut. And grains may not even be the worst food these animal eat. How about dead animal meat? Yes, that happens more often  than you know. 




所以,这些⾁可能并没有你以为的那么有营养。我们都认为吃⻥可以提供欧米伽3,对吧?⻥的欧米伽3是其从海洋植物和它们吃的小鱼中获取的。如果它们不吃那个,那这些⻥有多少欧米伽3呢?非常少。根据⻄雅图时报的⼀篇报道,主要以玉米和大豆为饲料的⼯业养殖的罗⾮⻥, 欧⽶伽3的含量取决于它们的饲料来加了多少⻥粉或⻥油……”。什么?罗非⻥中的欧⽶伽3可能来自鱼油?你是说这些⻥和我有着相同的欧米伽来源?有点好笑。


As a result, these meat may not be as nutritious as you would like to believe. We all think  eating fish gives us that wonderful Omega 3, right? Well, fish acquire omega-3 from the sea  plants and smaller fishes they eat. If they are not eating that, how much omega-3 do you think  these fish have? Very little. According to a report on Seattle Times, In farmed tilapia,  raised largely on corn and soy, omega-3 levels depend on how much fish meal or fish oil the  farm’s breeders mix in…”. What? The omega-3 in tilapia may come from fish oil? So you mean fish and I could have the same omega-3 source? How funny. 




再者,就是那些抗⽣素, 瘦肉精,以及我们常人无法叫出名字的那些化学物质让牲畜长得更快,更瘦,更壮,等等等等。有些是合法的,可以堂而皇之地使用,有些则是黑商家在偷偷使用。 事实上,世界上超过50%的抗生素是被用于动物身上的。美国和中国是农业⽤抗⽣素的两个最⼤⽤户。中国在 2013 年的官⽅数字是52%。在美国,根据 FDA 的数据,美国抗⽣素使⽤总量的80%⽤于农业,其中⽤在猪和家禽的抗⽣素是⽜和⽺的5到10倍。


Then, there are antibiotics, clenbuterol hydrochloride, and all the chemicals and substances  that we can not start to name that are fed to the animals, to make them grow faster, to make  them leaner, to make them fatter, and so on.  Some of these are legal and can be used openly, but some are used in secret.  In fact, more than 50% of antibiotics produced  are used on animals. US and China are the two biggest users of antibiotics for food  production. China’s official number in 2013 is 52%. In US, according to FDA, 80% of the total  antibiotic use in the U.S. is in agriculture, with pigs and poultry receiving five to 10 times more antibiotics than cows and sheep. 




这就是为什么所有健康和饮⻝专家都会建议你⻝⽤100%草饲的⽜⾁、真正自由放养的鸡⾁和鸡蛋和野生鱼的原因。但这并不切实际, 尤其是在中国。我⾄今也还没有找到不是熏制的野生三文鱼。我能买到的草饲⽜⾁也都是进⼝的。再说,有多少⼈可以⻓期吃地起这些⾁呢? 


That’s why all the health and diet professionals will advise you eat grass fed and grass finished  beef, real free range chicken and eggs, and wild caught fish. But in reality, that is not very  practical, especially in China. I have yet to find wild caught salmon that is not smoked. For grass fed beef, all I can find is imported. And how many people can afford it on a regular basis anyway? 




说个小插曲,我有⼀次在⼀家大型超市看到标有“谷的牛肉。谷饲?是为了和什么做区别呢?为什么谷物喂养值得贴上这样的特殊标签?“谷不正是你不要吃它的原因吗?除了试图混淆视听之外,我想不出其它的原因。 


On a side note, I saw beef in a big store labelled “grain fed”. Grain fed? As opposed to what?  Why is grain fed worth of a special label? That is exactly why you do not want it!  I cannot  think of any other reason than trying to confuse the public.




那么草饲和⾃由放养的动物产品更健康吗?是的,它们⽐传统⼯业饲养的动物更有营养,可担忧的地⽅更少,但这可不是个那么⾼的标准,这并不意味着它就是健康⻝品。草饲和⾃由放养并不能消除⾁类本身的健康⻛险。


So are grass fed and free range animal products healthier? Yes, they are more nutritious and  have less health concerns than conventionally raised animals, but that is a low bar, and it does  not mean it is a “health food”. And being grass fed and free range do not remove the inherent  health risk posed by meat consumption. 




已经有大量的研究表明了经常食用⾁类与⼼⾎管疾病、癌症、糖尿病等慢性疾病之间的关联,并且导致更⾼的总体死亡率。世界卫⽣组织已将红⾁,(草饲也好,不草饲也罢,)列为 2A 类致癌物,意思是可能致癌


There have been huge amount of research and studies showing the association between  regular consumption of meat and the risk for cardiovascular disease, cancer, diabetes, etc. and  overall higher mortality rates. World Health Organization has labeled red meat, grass fed or  not, a class 2A carcinogen, meaning “probably cancer causing”.




⼀项对我的饮食⾏为产⽣巨大影响的研究是著名的中国研究。它是由美国著名营养学家科林 • 坎⻉尔博⼠和中国营养学家陈俊⼠博⼠牵头的⼀项⼤规模研究,涵盖了中国的65个县和 6500⼈。培训 了350 名⼯作⼈员。资料的收集和分析花了大约⼗年的时间。《纽约时报》称其为有史以来对饮⻝与疾病风险之间关系进⾏的最全⾯的⼤型研究。 


One of the studies that hugely influenced my meat eating behavior was the famous “China  Study”. It is the result of a massive study spearheaded by Dr. Colin Campbell, a renowned  American nutritionist specialized in diet and disease and a Chinese nutrition scientist Dr. Junshi  Chen. The study covered 65 counties and 6500 people. 350 workers had to be trained. The study itself and the analysis took about a decade. The New York Times called it “the most  comprehensive large study ever undertaken of the relationship between diet and the risk of  developing disease”. 




 它确定了饮食与疾病之间的⼤约 9.4万个相关性。其中传达的最主要信息是:以素⻝为主的饮食,主要是谷物、蔬菜和⽔果,很少的动物性⻝物的摄⼊,可以大大降低⼀些癌症,中⻛,和⼼脏病的死亡率。


It identified about 94,000 correlations between diet and disease. The major message that was obtained from the study: the plant food –based diet, mainly grains, vegetables and fruits, and very little animal food, is associated with lower mortality of certain cancers, stroke, and  coronary heart disease. 




2004 年,丹·巴特纳与国家地理、国家⽼龄化研究所和世界上最优秀的⻓寿研究⼈员合作,试图找出上世界上百岁老人极其常见并且慢性病发病率极低的地⽅。他们发现了5个这样的区域,后来很出名地被称作是蓝⾊区域。这些人生活在不同的⼤陆,有着不同的⽓候,不同的宗教信仰,但他们都有着⼀些极其相似的饮⻝习惯。其中之⼀就是肉类的极少摄⼊。他们 95% 到 100% 的饮食都是素食。


In 2004, Dan Buettner teamed with National Geographic, the National Institute on Aging, and  the world's best longevity researchers to identify places around the world where people live regularly past age 100 and with much lower rates of chronic diseases. They found 5 such areas that are later famously known as “blue zones”. These people live on different continents,  have different climates and have different religious beliefs, but there are some unifying dietary  practices they all share. One of them is the sparing consumption of meat. 95% to 100% of  their diet is based on plants. 




说到植物蛋⽩和动物蛋⽩时,我们需要提及的另⼀个概念是完整蛋⽩质与不完整蛋⽩质。 


When we compare plant and animal protein, another concept we need to mention is complete  vs. incomplete protein. 




如果⼀种蛋⽩质是完整蛋⽩质,意思是它含有身体需要但不能自行制造的所有9种必需氨基酸。如果不完整,则没有全部这9钟氨基酸。⾁类、⻥类和奶制品都是完整的蛋⽩质来源。大多数植物含有不完整的蛋⽩质,尽管不是全部都是。⽐如,大豆、藜⻨、荞⻨都是完整的蛋⽩质来源。过去⼈们普遍认为,素⻝者需要在⼀餐里将不同的⻝物组合起来吃,以确保他们摄⼊⾜够的蛋⽩质。但现在我们知道这其实不必要。我们的身体在回收”蛋白质方面非常有效。记不记得,蛋⽩质在⻝⽤后会被分解为氨基酸?我们的身体⾥始终保持着⼀个氨基酸储备池,并不断地从这个储备池⾥抓取氨基酸来制造每时每刻所需的蛋⽩质。只要你每天吃的⻝物种类多样化, 那就没有什么可担⼼的。


When a protein source is complete, it means it has all the 9 essential amino acids that the body  needs but cannot make on its own. If incomplete, the food does not have all.  Meat, fish and  dairy are all complete protein sources. Most of the plants have incomplete proteins, though  not all of them.  Soy, quinoa, buckwheat, for example, are complete protein sources. There used to be a popular belief that vegetarians need to “combine” different foods at one meal to  make sure they get adequate intake of protein. But that theory has been proven unnecessary.  Our body is very efficient at “recycling” protein. Remember, protein is broken down into amino  acids after consumption. Our body maintains a “pool” of amino acids at all times, and makes protein as needed by grabbing the needed amino acids from the pool.  As long as you eat a  variety of foods throughout the day, you have nothing to worry about.




那植物蛋白和动物蛋白的吸收怎么样呢? 


How about bioavailability? 




⾁类的蛋⽩质确实更容易被⼈体吸收,因为这些蛋白质的结构和⼈体⾃身的更为相似。但是,这些吸收率的差别并不是非常之⼤。如果你摄⼊足够量的⻝物,这对于⼤多⼈都不是个问题,那你对这个也没什么可好担⼼的。


It is indeed true that meat is more readily available to be absorbed by the body because the  protein structure of meat is more similar to human body than plants. However, this difference  is small, and when you consume enough protein containing foods, which is the case for most  people, this is not an issue that we need to worry about. 




说了这么多关于⾁类的坏话之后,我不得不告诉你,我其实并不是个严格的素⻝主义者,虽然我很少吃⾁。这不是因为我⾔⾏不⼀,而是我不太想把自己搞得太疲惫。有时候因为便利和简单,你不得不做些妥协,尤其是在拜访家⼈和朋友的时候。⽽且,当我偶尔不可避免地屈服于红烧⾁和鹅肝酱的诱惑时,我不⾄于把自己鞭笞地体⽆完肤。


After all this meat-bashing, I have to tell you I am actually not a vegetarian though I don’t eat  meat often. It’s not because I am not doing what I’m preaching, it is because I don't want to tire myself out.  Sometimes making compromise is the easiest and most sensible decision, especially when you visit famiy and friends.  Also, I know when I  inevitably slip and succumb to the temptations of “braised pork” or “foie gras”, I  won’t beat myself up.  




很明显,我认为植物蛋⽩是更好的蛋⽩选择,但我并不是建议每个⼈都应该完全吃素(我自己都无法做到!),虽然从健康,环境和道德各个⽅⾯这都是⼀个美好的理想,但它不现实。其实我们不需要非黑即白,更重要的是吃好每⼀顿饭,力争每⼀天作出更为健康的选择。况且,我们都需要时不时给自律放个假!


You can clearly tell I think plant protein is a much more superior option, but I am not advising  everybody should abandon meat ( I cannot do it myself). That is certainly ideal, from all  perspectives: health, environment and ethics, but it is not reality. It’s not about all or nothing,  it’s about making progress and making healthier choices one meal at a time. And we all are  allowed to slip from time to time! 




那我们的蛋白质日需量转换成饭桌上的⻝物是什么样的呢?


So what does our daily requirement of protein look like on our plates or bowls? 




这些是最常见的⼀些⻝物的蛋⽩质含量:



These are the protein content of the most common foods:




对中国⼈来说,这些表格明显缺失豆制品。 ⾖制品的蛋⽩质含量要看怎么做,但⼀般来说,3盎司的⾖腐有510克的蛋白。⼀杯8盎司的豆奶含⼤约8克的蛋⽩。


For us Chinese, what is apparently missing is soy products. Depending on how it is made and  what type of tofu it is, 3 oz of tofu could have about 5 to 10 grams of protein. A cup of soy milk of 8 oz has about 8 grams.




3盎司的⾁是多少呢?这个图是三盎司的肌肉和三盎司的三文鱼。


What does 3 oz of animal protein look like?  This chart shows you 3 oz of chicken and 3 oz of salmon.



(todaysdietician.com)


⼤约是⼀副扑克牌,或者你手掌心这么⼤。所以当你吃下几大块红烧⾁的时候,有可能你已经满足了⼀天⼀半的蛋白质需求量,尤其对于女性来说。


It is approximately the size of a deck of cards, or the size of your palm. So when you chow  down several big pieces of braised pork, that is probably about half of your daily protein need  already, especially for women. 




那三盎司的豆腐呢?(旁边是苹果10手机


How about 3 oz of tofu? (iPhone 10 on the side) 





对于豆类,也可以用手来做⼤致的估计:⼀份,也就是半杯的量就差不多是你拳头前⾯的大小。


For beans and legumes, you can also use your hand for approximate measure: one serving of  1/2 cup is about the size of the front of your clenched fist. 


(todaysdietician.com)


这个图片是我做的煮黑豆。半杯。


Here is a picture of the black beans I cooked for one serving. 



放在⼀个小碗⾥是这样子(旁边是扑克):


It looks like this when I put it in a small bowl (a deck of card on the side): 


 

对于坚果和种⼦类,⼀份,也就是⼀盎司,其实不是很多。


For nuts and seeds, one oz is actually not that much. 


这个是⼀盎司核桃:


Here is 1 oz of walnuts: 



⼀盎司腰果:


1 oz of cashews: 



⼀盎司⼤杏仁:

 

1 oz of almonds: 



⼀盎司开⼼果:


1 oz of pistachios: 



这是⼀盎司混合坚果:


Here is what it looks like for 1 oz of mixed nuts:

 


坚果和种⼦⼀份基本上就是⼀⼩把。


Basically, for one serving of nuts and seeds, it’s about one small handful. 


需要指出,最好每天吃不多于两颗巴⻄坚果,因为它含有极高的硒,吃太多倒可能有害


It needs to pointed out that you should eat no more than 2 pieces of Brazil nuts a day. Too  many could be harmful because of its high level of selenium. 




我们公众号的读者应该知道我并不推荐⻓期摄⼊乳制品(请参阅我们之前的⽂章你对牛奶的了解⼏乎都是错的)。⼀杯全脂牛奶和全脂酸奶都含⼤约8克的蛋⽩质,和⾖奶差不太多。


Readers of our blog know that I’m not a proponent of regular dairy products consumption (see  our previous article “Question everything you know about milk”). One cup of whole milk or  yoghurt made from whole milk has about 8 grams of protein, approximately the same as that  for soy milk. 




身体每顿饭可以吸收的蛋⽩质是有限的,所以不建议⼀顿饭将全天的蛋⽩质全部搞定,⽽是应该三餐均衡摄⼊。


The body can only absorb certain amount of protein at each meal, so it is not recommended  that we cram our protein intake in one meal, but rather,  try to even it out across  three daily meals. 




假如你是⼀名体重约 60 公⽄的⼥性。这意味着⼤约每天48克蛋⽩质的需求,⼤约每餐16克。如果你吃肉,那实际上是2盎司多⼀点,⽐你的⼿掌还⼩。如果你吃素,这⼤约是⼀杯豆子的量。


So let’s say you are a female weighing about 60 kg. That translates into around 48 grams of  protein, or 16 grams per meal. If you eat meat, that is actually a little more than 2 oz, smaller  than the size of your palm. If you are vegetarian, this is about one cup of beans.




当然,蛋⽩质并不是只能从⾁蛋或者⾖类⾥获取,也可以从蔬菜中获取。是的!事实上,就每卡路⾥蛋⽩质而言,蔬菜的蛋⽩质含量是极⾼的!⽐如,⼀杯煮熟的菠菜⼤约含有5.3克蛋⽩质;⼀杯⻄兰花有3.7克;⼀杯白蘑菇有3.9克。


Of course, you also get your protein from vegetables. Yes, that’s true! In fact, vegetables have very high protein content in terms protein per calorie. For example, one cup of cooked  spinach has about 5.3 grams of protein; one cup of broccoli has 3.7 gram; one cup of white  mushroom has 3.9 gram. 




我得到的关于饮食最好和最简单的建议是:看下你的盘⼦,⼤约 70% 的空间应该给蔬菜和水果,富含蛋⽩质的⻝物占领剩余⼤约30%,或者⼤约是你⼿掌大小, 再加上一些健康脂肪。


The best and easiest advice I got about meal planning is this: look down on your plate, about  70% of the real estate should be occupied by vegetables and fruits, with protein-rich foods  about remaining 30%, or approximately the size of your palm,plus some healthy fats .




中国⼈喜欢共享⻝物⽽不是自己单独⼀个盘⼦。这个传统其实对控制食量不是很好。当你不知道自己总共吃了多少东西时,就很容易吃得过饱。所以我强烈建议你在餐前先将食物预先装在⼀个盘⼦里,或者将⻝物分开放在不同的碗中,这样可以更好地控制份量。


Chinese share food instead of  having individual plates. This could actually be a handicap in terms of meal planning. It’s very  easy to overeat when you don’t know how much you are eating in total. I strongly suggest you either pre-plate your food, or separate foods in different bowls before the meal to have better  portion control. 




吃够,但不要太过量,⼤约每天每公⽄体重0.8 克(每磅体重约 0.36 克),约占总热量摄⼊的 10-15%,以素⻝为主。做到这个就不会太错。


Have adequate protein, around 0.8 gram per kilogram of weight (around 0.36 gram per pound  of weight) per day, about 10-15% of total calories, mostly plant-based. I don’t think you can  go wrong with this. 


References: 

• MindBodyGreen. 7 things everybody should know about farmed fish 

• Seattle Times. Another side of tilapia, the perfect farm fifish

• MedicalNewsToday. Drug resistance: Does antibiotic use in animals affect human health?

• World Health Organization. Stop using antibiotics in healthy animals to prevent the spread of  antibiotic resistance

• 中国饲料⾏业信息网。中国抗生素⼗年调查报告:抗⽣素52%为兽用

• Naomi E Allen 1 , Paul N Appleby, Gwyneth K Davey, Rudolf Kaaks, Sabina Rinaldi, Timothy  J Key. The associations of diet with serum insulin-like growth factor I and its main binding  proteins in 292 women meat-eaters, vegetarians, and vegans

• Ocean Robbins. Is Grass-Fed Beef Good for Your Health & the Planet?

• WTO. Cancer: Carcinogenicity of the consumption of red meat and processed meat

• bluezones.com. Food Guidelines. 

• Todaysdietician. Protein Content of Foods

• T Colin Campbell. Animal vs plant protein